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When compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary triumph.